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    Plant-derived biosurfactants: Extraction, characteristics and properties for application in cosmetics

    Year: 2021

    Journal: Biocatal. Agric. Biotechnol., Volume 34, JUL

    Authors: Bezerra, Karen G. O.; Silva, Israel G. S.; Almeida, Fabiola C. G.; Rufino, Raquel D.; Sarubbo, Leonie A.

    Organizations: State of Pernambuco Assistance to Science and Technology Foundation-Brazil (FACEPE); National Council for Scientific and Technological Development - Brazil (CNPq); Coordination for the Advancement of Higher Education Personnel - Brazil (CAPES) [001]

    Keywords: Biosurfactants; Plant extracts; Bioemulsifiers; Cosmetic industry

    Three extraction processes to obtain Chenopodium quinoa, Glycine max and Malphiguia ermaginata biosurfactants were evaluated. Then, an experimental design was employed to optimize the selected extraction process. The factors selected for optimization of the extraction conditions were temperature and solvent concentration and the response variable was surface tension. The extracts of C. quinoa, G. max and M. ermaginata were able to reduce the water surface tension from 72.02 +/- 0.20 to 31.06 +/- 0.29 32.41 +/- 0.08 and 33.09 +/- 0.18 mN/m, with CMC of 0.33 +/- 0.07, 0.40 +/- 0.08 and 0.50 +/- 0.03%, respectively. The emulsification index of the extracts was evaluated at different concentrations with various oils and the best emulsions were obtained with coconut oil. The concentrations of total saponins in the extracts were 0.42 +/- 0.01, 0.74 +/- 0.01 and 0.64 +/- 0.02 mg/mL for C. quinoa, G. max and M. ermaginata, respectively, and all of them showed triterpene saponins in their compositions. The extracts from C. quinoa and G. max had an anionic character, while the extract of M. ermaginata showed to be non-ionic. The characterization of the extracts was also carried out by thin layer chromatography performed on the purified extracts. The results show that the biosurfactants present in the plant extracts have potential for use as cosmetic additives, proving to be suitable for the formulation of products that require reduction of surface tension and formation of emulsions.
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